Tallin Fashion Week continues. I didn’t have any prejudices nor expectations for the day which was good. I got some nice surprises and of course saw some questionable things also.
Before going to the talk about the shows it seems that I have missed a really important trend — random pieces of threads in random places on clothes. Or is there a lint-roll deficit in Estonia? There were threads and hair everywhere where they shouldn’t have been.
Vilve Unt
Second day was kicked off by the grand (old) lady of Estonian fashion Vilve Unt who has taught many of our designers the craft of fashion design.
I have to say I was positively surprised how commercially viable the collection was. The trouser-skirt-thingies (sorry don’t now the term for those) were fantastic, they looked modern and classical at the same time. The collection overall felt very finished to the final details – styling, music, background video. Everything had a very Northern feel to it. A little darkness and reservation came across. All in all I liked the collection a lot (except for the pieces with prints, but that’s just my personal taste). I felt the author’s experience and professionalism in the audience. Kudos!
Here are some pics, tho they don’t do justice to the clothes.
Summer party dresses was my first thought. The minimal black and white flowy dresses would be perfect for summer hangs, garden parties, champagne picnics, etc. For me Liiva Leškin has previously been a little random and old, but this time I got converted. I see a clear market for the not-too-gowny and flirtatious dresses. Minimal colour scheme will be appreciated by many modest northerners. Tho, I have no understanding why the models were sent to catwalk barefoot. When did you last go out barefoot? I will never understand this move at the shows.
And the confusion arrived. For whom these weirdly cut pieces were made I don’t have a clue. Tho, there’s always a chance that this was a fashion art show. And there was some nice art in there. I kinda liked some of the painting-like prints. The dresses felt somewhat dated. That’s the thing that made me confused the most I believe. Or it might have been the branches in the model’s hair? In the end it just wasn’t my cup of fashion tea. Lets leave it to that.
Ok. The outdated style is a thing now. The whole Donna Nordica collection felt like a blast from the fashion past, punch of olden style right to your face. Random crazy materials. Silhouettes from the corners of the not so pretty 80s. It felt that the designer is stuck in her youth or something. I don’t comprehend. But if she has a market then congrats to her. Tho, I would imagine that the women would like to feel a little more current and fresh sometimes.
Tho, super-kudos for using real people as models, sad that the MILFs were made to look older and less hot than they are.
The old in not new sauce continued. I understand borrowing ideas from the past but please add a personalised or a modern touch to the things you develop. These were dresses from the random store racks. I think every 50+ woman has one of those in her wardrobe from some weird slavic time period of her life. Dunno, maybe I’m wrong and blind and don’t know anything what older women want to wear. Tho, im pretty sure everyone likes to be beautiful and feel special. This was very general specialness were nowhere to be found.
Thank god for rebel youth. Finally something exciting. The crazy stuff from Kristel Kuslapuu was like a breath of fresh air among the dated fashions of the day. Tho, I felt some early Jeremy Scott influences i didn’t mind that. Fun and quirky and menswear on top of that is always favoured by me. Of course i understand that the commercial value of the collection is near to nothing but creativity and potential showing is high. The latter is important for personal brand building. Congrats on making a memorable mark! I’m looking forward to seeing her more viable and commercial pieces. Intrigue has ben built.
I’m sad that the show was so short. Next time more pieces please!
And the evening was ended by Hanna Korsar’s pretty dresses. No surprise. Well made. Wannabe dramatic dresses. All in all nice feminine pieces. Somewhat good use of lace compared to others who have tried it in the last two days. Supercool video backdrop. The dark romantic story and the luxurious feeling of the clothes came out in there. Unfortunately the live show didn’t live up to that. A for effort. I can see people liking this collection. So this is again not my cup of fashion tea moment.
So that was the day 2. I have to be honest it made me feel sad about Estonian fashion a little. Or maybe about the Tallinn Fashion Week. I don’t know. So much outdated things on stage made me wonder if this is the image that we want to portray outward. Where is the freshness, the style or the luxury in the usually so fun and playful world of fashion.
Hoping more from day 3.
Until next post.
Cheers!
Photos: Erlend Štaub